Posts Tagged ‘Veterinarian’
Tuesday, July 6th, 2010
Claws need to be trimmed regularly for the comfort of the owner as well as the reptile. This should be carried out on a regular basis and will require assistance. One person must hold the iguana firmly, while the other carries out the claw-trimming.
Clean the areas first, using a disinfectant designed for reptiles, then use sharp nail clippers to remove the end of the claw. Avoid cutting claws too short because you may cut into the blood vessels in the nail, which could lead to infection. Always ask advice from your pet store or veterinarian if in doubt.
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Tuesday, June 29th, 2010
Vitamin supplements are available for reptiles, and your pet store or veterinarian will be able to advise on the best for your pet. Always follow the instructions provided, and don’t be tempted to exceed the suggested doses. Females should be given additional supplementation during the breeding season.
If you buy a good, healthy animal to start with, feeding should present no problems. The trick is to offer a varied diet and to find out what your animal likes best.
Did You Know?
The iguana’s long, flattened tail is used as a rudder when swimming and also as a defense weapon. A lash from the tail would make any adversary think twice about taking on the iguana.
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Wednesday, February 10th, 2010
Still another iguana killer is respiratory disease. Generally it is found in run-down specimens. Buy a healthy animal and take good care of it and avoid this problem. If you are the owner of a thin-tailed, grey, wet-eyed or sunken-eyed snuffler who doesn’t eat or distend his dewlap of otherwise show an enthusiasm for life, you might try several cures simultaneously:
- Try a penicillin-type drug administered by your veterinarian
- Provide sunlight, preferably direct and unfiltered by glass.
- Coax food – try variety
- Avoid handling and stressing the animal
- Keep temperature up – say 82 F to 90 F. Both day and night during the treatment.
- Keep cage dry and clean. Clean means antiseptically clean. Wash the cage with a carbolic acid preparation like Lysol and then thoroughly rinse and dry it to assure that no chemical remains before placing the animal back in his quarters.
- Avoid wooden cages and cages with complicated construction where parasites and germs can hide and avoid detection and disinfection.
It should be noted that some iguana parasites pass through complicated life cycles and during one stage may leave a reptile and find a bird or mammal host, possibly even a human. The important thing to remember is that the parasites like chiggers, ticks and mites sometimes carry within their systems such diseases as “Q” fever. When a mite carrying “Q” fever infests an iguana becomes a stepping stone for the disease to be transmitted further.
The control is simple. Free your iguana from ticks, chiggers and mites. Keep the iguana isolated from other animals which might transfer new infestations. Keep the cage clean. Sterilize it if necessary. Keep the cage simple so that parasites do not have a place to hide while you are eliminating the individuals clinging to your pet. Once freed of parasites your new acquisition need never be infested again.
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Tags: Auto Financing, Care Of Iguanas, Chiggers, Complicated Life, Dewlap, Germs, Infestations, Life Cycles, Lysol, Mammal, Mite, Mites, Parasites, Q Fever, Reptile, Respiratory Disease, Specimens, Stepping Stone, Ticks, Veterinarian, Wooden Cages
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Friday, January 29th, 2010
Not all mites are found on the exposed skin of your reptile pet. Some species get into the nostrils, others get into the trachea and lungs. This is a job for your veterinarian. Others lodge themselves near the sometimes moist area near the cloaca and around the base of the tail. This you can clear up by drying and disinfecting the cage.
Occasionally a recently imported iguana is found which is free of mites and ticks but is still wasting away, although eating well. This animal may be suffering from pin worms or other internal parasitic worms. His cloaca will be loaded with them and your veterinarian will be able to find them in the feces in the same way he examines dogs and cats. He may be able to treat your pet successfully. The problem is usually that the pet owner doesn’t recognize that there is a problem until the specimen is on the threshold of death.
If you wish to avoid problems like this, start with a bright eyed healthy animal and keep him clean and isolated from other animals which may be infested with parasites.
Your pet may not wear down his toenails as fast as they continue to grow. If you notice that they are twisting under or corkscrewing, you might do well to prune them a little. Go at it slowly until you find how far to clip without striking living tissue – the part of the nail nearest the toe is actually alive and is supplied with veins, arteries and nerves.
You should use a tool which cuts the nail but does not splinter it by crushing. For a young iguana, perhaps an ordinary fingernail clipper will suffice. Larger lizards will need the tool which is used for dogs. Perhaps you can buy one in your pet shop. You should not ever strike the “quick,” but if you do, you can stop the flow of blood with a styptic pencil – this is just alum and is available in your drugstore or from nearly any man who shaves with a razor. As with any minor wound, it can be treated with an antiseptic cream, but it will probably heal uneventfully regardless of whether you treat it or not.
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Tags: Alum, Antiseptic Cream, Arteries, Cloaca, Dogs And Cats, Feces, Fingernail, Lizards, Mites, Moist Area, Nostrils, Parasitic Worms, Pet Owner, Pet Shop, Pin Worms, Reptile Pet, Styptic Pencil, Toenails, Trachea, Veterinarian
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Tuesday, January 26th, 2010
The powder with a warm bath and several rinses and clean the cage thoroughly before reintroducing the specimen.
These two insect killers should be available through your pet dealer or veterinarian. A mixture of half-and-half castor oil and 90% grain alcohol brushed on the affected areas may also eliminate mites. Don’t dip your pet in this mixture; just apply a little locally. Note that 90% grain alcohol is not 90 proof. You can buy 90% grain neutral spirits in your pharmacy or liquor store. A little goes a long way.
If you pick off ticks and chiggers with the tweezers, you might well follow up with an alcohol swab to help reduce the risk of infection at the sore spot. Perhaps a pretreatment with the alcohol will tend to loosen the tick before you attempt to pick it off. This passage is not intended to scare anyone from keeping an iguana. People have had dogs and cats with chiggers, ticks, mites and fleas for all of the recorded history.
A number of large and small ticks attached under the edges of the scales of a rainbow boa. The ticks found on iguanas are usually similar in appearance to those found on snakes – ticks are not too choosy.
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Wednesday, May 13th, 2009
The juvenile Iganua is mainly insectivorous. It’s diet in captivity consists mainly of insects such as mealworms, earthworms and crickets , although vegetables and fruit are often accepted and included. Although the adult Iganua is for the most part mainly and fundamentally a herbevoire, it sometimes accepts fish as well as poultry – including chicken and turkey bird meat. Overall in most cases insects are rarely consumed by adult iganuas.
Juvenile Iguana 5lbs (Pretty Bird) | Pet Supply Plus – Juvenile Iguana 5lbs (Pretty Bird). Posted by on May 31st, 2009 and filed under Exotic Pets. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0. You can leave a response or trackback to this entry …
Tetra T16591 Tetra Reed’s Juvenile Iguana Food, 9 Oz – reed’s juvenile iguana food, 9 oznutritious diet for iguanas. supplemented to meet reptile’s slow growth need. high in natural fibers. no animal byproducts. Manufactured: Tetra Price $20.99 on Monday 04. May 2009.
Juvenile Iguana Food (7oz) | Pet’s Chemist – Rep-Cal Juvenile Iguana Food is formulated to ensure proper growth and health by providing complete and balanced nutrition. It is veterinarian recommended food.
FLUKER IGUANA DIET JUVENILE 4 OZ – FLUKER IGUANA DIET JUVENILE 4 OZ. FLUKER IGUANA DIET JUVENILE 4 OZ. Buy/More Info.
It is a serious misconception that adult Iganuas can thrive and live well and healthy on a diet of lettuce , tomatoes and mealworms. To ensure that the Iganuas appetite remains vibrant and sparked , it is important that the lizard’s menu be diversified overall if not day to day and on an ongoing basis. It has been observed and noted by many authorities that Iganaus have been known to prefer the following foods : green , yellow, kidney and baked beans , collard greens , grated carrots , cabbage , and apples , bannanas and grated mealworms ( for juvenile Iguana).
Iguana Feeding Information And It’s Eating Habits – In one of the shops of small animals in the terrarium of iguana i have even saw the inscription: “… the juveniles consume insects, with age they become strictly vegetarians ….” Can you think of that? And then you buy iguana in such shop …
Iguana Molting – Green Juvenile Iguana In Grass Molting, the process of reconstruction of skin that goes on for life. Usually occurs at 4-6 weeks in the spring, at summer may be more frequent, while in winter and during the mating period the intervals …
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Tags: Animal Byproducts, Appetite, Balanced Nutrition, Captivity, Chemist, Crickets, Earthworms, Exotic Pets, Insects, Lettuce, lizard, Misconception, Natural Fibers, Nbsp Nbsp Nbsp Nbsp Nbsp, Pet Supply, Poultry, Pretty Bird, Rep Cal, Reptile, Veterinarian
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