Uglogical » Pet Shop

Housing for Salamanders

admin — Wed, 01 Feb 2012 07:13:37 +0000

By far the best type of tank available for general purposes is the all-glass tank. This consists of a number of sheets of glass of appropriate sizes cemented together along their edges with a remarkable versatile substance called silicone rubber sealing compound (silicone cement). This type of putty has various commercial uses, but brands suitable for aquarium construction are usually available at pet shops. All-glass aquaria are available in a wide array of sizes and designs at any pet shop, and it is usually cheaper to buy an all-glass tank than to try to make one yourself.

Great care should be taken in properly placing and aquarium for aquatic salamanders, remembering that a tank of water is extremely weighty. A sturdy base should be chosen and put in a quiet location away from a window and near an electrical outlet. Once in its permanent position, the tank should be thoroughly cleaned (without soaps) then filled with water and tested for leaks, which can be repaired with silicone cement.

Most of the smaller aquatic salamanders will appreciate a natural looking environment with plants, rocks and other decorative materials. Good tips on setting up a planted aquarium can be obtained from books about keeping tropical or cold-water fishes. Here it will suffice to say that a layer of washed aquarium gravel about 5 cm (2 in) deep at the front of the tank, rising to about 7.5 cm (3 in) at the rear, should be placed in the aquarium.

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Choosing a Pet Lizard

admin — Tue, 08 Mar 2011 13:52:09 +0000

You have to decide whether to set up a live bug larder for your lizard (especially if you buy bugs via mail-order – the minimum cricket order is 1000!) or stop at the pet shop three or four times a week to buy smaller quantities of live foods. So the next questions you need to ask anyone selling you a lizard (after “how big does it get?”) is “what does it eat?” and “how can I find that food conveniently and rapidly?” Unlike snakes, which can be offered a mouse once a week or every two weeks, most lizards need to eat every day or every other day.

The following section is a rough guide to the most commonly found lizards available for hobbyists. It is by no means complete, but gives a thumbnail sketch including maximum size, housing and heating needs and feeding requirements.

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A Place in the Sun

admin — Wed, 03 Feb 2010 14:06:29 +0000

The common green iguana is one species within one genus of a family of lizards found mostly in the New World. This green iguana and the other typical iguanas are tropical and semi-tropical and active during daylight hours (diurnal). Their eyes have round pupils and well developed lids. Their tongues are short, thick and only slightly notched, as contrasted to the long forked tongue of, for instance, the monitor lizards. It lays eggs, in common with most other iguanids (oviparous). Only a few give birth to living young (viviparous). They are frequently but not always brightly colored; they often have spines, frills or crests, and many can distend their throats. They can alter their color somewhat, some species more than others. Some may favor trees (arboreal) and others favor the land (terrestrial). Two are from the Galapagos Islands, and one of these is semi-marine, eats seaweed and would probably rather die than climb a tree.

For a beginning herpetologist or hobbyist pet keeper, the best iguana is the common green iguana – scientifically: Iguana iguana iguana. If you don’t go out of your way when you choose a pet in a pet shop, this is what you probably will get. Good. The only other iguanas that resemble it are Iguana iguana delicatissima which lacks the circular shields found below the eardrums of Iguana iguana iguana, and Iguana iguana rhinolopha which has a slight protuberance at the snout. So there you have it – genus Iguana, species iguana, and subspecies perhaps iguana or delicatissima or rhinolopha.

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Tick Prevention for your Iguana part 2

admin — Fri, 29 Jan 2010 13:11:37 +0000

Not all mites are found on the exposed skin of your reptile pet. Some species get into the nostrils, others get into the trachea and lungs. This is a job for your veterinarian. Others lodge themselves near the sometimes moist area near the cloaca and around the base of the tail. This you can clear up by drying and disinfecting the cage.

Occasionally a recently imported iguana is found which is free of mites and ticks but is still wasting away, although eating well. This animal may be suffering from pin worms or other internal parasitic worms. His cloaca will be loaded with them and your veterinarian will be able to find them in the feces in the same way he examines dogs and cats. He may be able to treat your pet successfully. The problem is usually that the pet owner doesn’t recognize that there is a problem until the specimen is on the threshold of death.

If you wish to avoid problems like this, start with a bright eyed healthy animal and keep him clean and isolated from other animals which may be infested with parasites.

Your pet may not wear down his toenails as fast as they continue to grow. If you notice that they are twisting under or corkscrewing, you might do well to prune them a little. Go at it slowly until you find how far to clip without striking living tissue – the part of the nail nearest the toe is actually alive and is supplied with veins, arteries and nerves.

You should use a tool which cuts the nail but does not splinter it by crushing. For a young iguana, perhaps an ordinary fingernail clipper will suffice. Larger lizards will need the tool which is used for dogs. Perhaps you can buy one in your pet shop. You should not ever strike the “quick,” but if you do, you can stop the flow of blood with a styptic pencil – this is just alum and is available in your drugstore or from nearly any man who shaves with a razor. As with any minor wound, it can be treated with an antiseptic cream, but it will probably heal uneventfully regardless of whether you treat it or not.

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