Like people, iguanas are all different. Some are outgoing and enjoy the company of humans, others do not. There is, unfortunately, no simple way to predict how an iguana will turn out, but it is better to avoid any babies that appear nervous.
Males are generally more aggressive than females, but males can still make excellent pets. Iguanas are generally not aggressive toward humans, but may occasionally display aggression toward each other.
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Young iguanas may eat some insects, but adults are generally totally herbivorous. Live insects, such as crickets and mealworms, are readily available from all pet stores that sell reptiles (and many that don’t), and all of these are suitable for young iguanas. In the United Kingdom, locusts are also available.
Not all baby iguanas will eat insects, however, and they will thrive if fed exclusively on vegetable matter. The key to a good diet is variety, and it is very important not to let your iguana become fixated with one food item.
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Correct feeding is probably the most important aspect of keeping your iguana in good health, and is also the area in which most problems occur. Iguanas are herbivorous, that is, they eat plants; but they will also devour insects and small rodents in the wild.
Did you Know?
Their large size means adult iguanas have few natural predators, but they are the prey of large snakes, such as boas and anacondas. Baby iguanas are more vulnerable, being preyed on by turtles, large fish, and a variety of mammals and birds.
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Claws need to be trimmed regularly for the comfort of the owner as well as the reptile. This should be carried out on a regular basis and will require assistance. One person must hold the iguana firmly, while the other carries out the claw-trimming.
Clean the areas first, using a disinfectant designed for reptiles, then use sharp nail clippers to remove the end of the claw. Avoid cutting claws too short because you may cut into the blood vessels in the nail, which could lead to infection. Always ask advice from your pet store or veterinarian if in doubt.
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Iguanas, like all reptiles, periodically shed their skins as they grow. Snakes do this in one piece, but iguana skin flakes off in patches. Occasionally, skin does not come away properly, particularly on the toes, and any adhering pieces need to be removed. This is best done by spraying the affected area with lukewarm water. Your iguana will appreciate being sprayed with water, particularly when it is shedding its skin.
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Vitamin supplements are available for reptiles, and your pet store or veterinarian will be able to advise on the best for your pet. Always follow the instructions provided, and don’t be tempted to exceed the suggested doses. Females should be given additional supplementation during the breeding season.
If you buy a good, healthy animal to start with, feeding should present no problems. The trick is to offer a varied diet and to find out what your animal likes best.
Did You Know?
The iguana’s long, flattened tail is used as a rudder when swimming and also as a defense weapon. A lash from the tail would make any adversary think twice about taking on the iguana.
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Clean water must be available at all times. Most iguanas will drink from a bowl once they are used to it, but some might prefer drinking from a fine mist spray. This will also encourage healthy shedding and will be greatly appreciated by your iguana.
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In warmer parts of the United States and southern Europe, iguanas can be kept outside for a large part of the time. Even in colder countries, like England, iguanas enjoy being able to get outside and bask in natural sunlight on warm days. A sturdy, aviary-like structure with a wooden frame and wire mesh panels is probably the best and easiest to construct. The use of glass in outdoor enclosures should be restricted to small areas only, to prevent overheating or burning.
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As your iguana grows, it will be necessary to provide a much larger cage. The general rule is that the cage should be at least one-and-a-half times the body length of the animal in length, two-thirds the length in width, and the same height as the length of the animal. Thus, for a 5-foot (1.5 m) animal (easily attained in very few years) the cage would need to be 7 1/2 feet (2.3 m) long, 3 1/2 feet (1.1 m) wide and 5 feet (1.5 m) high. Such a cage will need to be specially constructed, because a few pet stores can provide a ready-built enclosure of such dimensions. The basic design would be a wooden box with sliding glass doors at the front.
Another option is to turn an entire room into an iguana enclosure, which is particularly suitable for breeding groups. Another way of providing housing is to utilize an alcove or storage area, blocking it in and installing glass doors for access. You could also use an old wardrobe or cupboard by removing existing doors and replacing them with glass.
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A reliable thermostat will be needed to monitor the temperature and to prevent overheating. It is also a good idea to use a dimmer-type thermostat to control the basking lamp. All heating elements and bulbs must be protected so that the iguana cannot come into direct contact with the device.
Special fluorescent light tubes are now available that are designed specifically for iguanas. These lights are called full-spectrum lamps, and they not only emit a high-quality light that will display the iguana to its best, but they also produce invisible ultraviolet light. Iguanas, like many lizards, need access to UV-B light because this ultraviolet frequency is required for vitamin D3 synthesis. This is vital for the long-term health and well-being of your iguana. The tubes will need to be replaced approximately 12 to 14 hours a day.
The lamps must be placed in the correct position. The animal needs to bask close to the lamp to receive maximum benefit from the UV-B light, and, ideally, the tube should be placed 12 inches (30 cm) from the basking branch.
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