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Studying Reptiles

Friday, August 5th, 2011

February: Reptile Toes in a Jam, Turtle Questions: The causes of reptile toe and toenail injuries often lie in the type of caging you choose to use.

March: The Different Types of Egg Binding: Treatment of egg-bound iguanas depends on the condition.

April: The Real Cost of Veterinary Medicine: When choosing a vet, experience and expertise can affect the price.

May: Dangers and Treatment of NSHP: The most commonly seen condition in captive herps, NSHP results from poor husbandry.

June: Odd Blisters, Insatiable Tegu: Blisters can result from a range of causes, from mites to infection. A very healthy appetite is normal for tegus.

July: Retching Red-ear, Anorexic Python: Aquatic turtles may eat artificial plants. Anorexia is a common and serious problem in captive herps.

August: Open-Mouth Breathing in Snakes: You should suspect a larger problem when you see your snake exhibiting this irregular behavior.

September: Gravid Iguana, Scale Rot: Iguana Eggs are unlikely to “crack” inside a gravid female, but follicles can rupture. Belly rot is a systematic disease.

October: Eye Trauma in Reptiles: Herps may develop ‘bloody’ eyes for many reasons, serious trauma being one of them.

November: Diagnosing and Treating Abscesses: From parasite cysts to viral papillomas, abscesses in reptiles come in a variety of forms.

December: Deadly Red Leg Disease: This amphibian illness is caused by bacteria and occurs in animals living in suboptimal conditions.

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Selecting Your Iguana

Sunday, May 23rd, 2010

You can buy green iguanas from many pet stores, where experienced staff should be on hand to give you advice. If they are not, find another store.

What to Look for

Look for an iguana that is lively and alert. Make sure that it is plump and its eyes are bright, clear, and round, with no discharge. Check carefully that it has all its digits, that its claws are unbroken, and that there are no ticks or mites. A young iguana should have a mischievous and inquisitive look and should occasionally flick its tongue as it moves around. Always try to choose an iguana that remains reasonably calm when picked up, because it will be easier to handle than a flighty or nervous animal. Iguanas store fat at the base of their tail, so this should be fat and rounded, with no bones visible.

Signs of a Healthy Iguana:

Body condition – must be plump
Tail – no sign of damage or wounds

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Care of Iguanas

Wednesday, February 10th, 2010

Still another iguana killer is respiratory disease. Generally it is found in run-down specimens. Buy a healthy animal and take good care of it and avoid this problem. If you are the owner of a thin-tailed, grey, wet-eyed or sunken-eyed snuffler who doesn’t eat or distend his dewlap of otherwise show an enthusiasm for life, you might try several cures simultaneously:

Try a penicillin-type drug administered by your veterinarian
Provide sunlight, preferably direct and unfiltered by glass.
Coax food – try variety
Avoid handling and stressing the animal
Keep temperature up – say 82 F to 90 F. Both day and night during the treatment.
Keep cage dry and clean. Clean means antiseptically clean. Wash the cage with a carbolic acid preparation like Lysol and then thoroughly rinse and dry it to assure that no chemical remains before placing the animal back in his quarters.
Avoid wooden cages and cages with complicated construction where parasites and germs can hide and avoid detection and disinfection.

It should be noted that some iguana parasites pass through complicated life cycles and during one stage may leave a reptile and find a bird or mammal host, possibly even a human. The important thing to remember is that the parasites like chiggers, ticks and mites sometimes carry within their systems such diseases as “Q” fever. When a mite carrying “Q” fever infests an iguana becomes a stepping stone for the disease to be transmitted further.

The control is simple. Free your iguana from ticks, chiggers and mites. Keep the iguana isolated from other animals which might transfer new infestations. Keep the cage clean. Sterilize it if necessary. Keep the cage simple so that parasites do not have a place to hide while you are eliminating the individuals clinging to your pet. Once freed of parasites your new acquisition need never be infested again.

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Tags: Auto Financing, Care Of Iguanas, Chiggers, Complicated Life, Dewlap, Germs, Infestations, Life Cycles, Lysol, Mammal, Mite, Mites, Parasites, Q Fever, Reptile, Respiratory Disease, Specimens, Stepping Stone, Ticks, Veterinarian, Wooden Cages
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Tick Prevention for your Iguana part 2

Friday, January 29th, 2010

Not all mites are found on the exposed skin of your reptile pet. Some species get into the nostrils, others get into the trachea and lungs. This is a job for your veterinarian. Others lodge themselves near the sometimes moist area near the cloaca and around the base of the tail. This you can clear up by drying and disinfecting the cage.

Occasionally a recently imported iguana is found which is free of mites and ticks but is still wasting away, although eating well. This animal may be suffering from pin worms or other internal parasitic worms. His cloaca will be loaded with them and your veterinarian will be able to find them in the feces in the same way he examines dogs and cats. He may be able to treat your pet successfully. The problem is usually that the pet owner doesn’t recognize that there is a problem until the specimen is on the threshold of death.

If you wish to avoid problems like this, start with a bright eyed healthy animal and keep him clean and isolated from other animals which may be infested with parasites.

Your pet may not wear down his toenails as fast as they continue to grow. If you notice that they are twisting under or corkscrewing, you might do well to prune them a little. Go at it slowly until you find how far to clip without striking living tissue – the part of the nail nearest the toe is actually alive and is supplied with veins, arteries and nerves.

You should use a tool which cuts the nail but does not splinter it by crushing. For a young iguana, perhaps an ordinary fingernail clipper will suffice. Larger lizards will need the tool which is used for dogs. Perhaps you can buy one in your pet shop. You should not ever strike the “quick,” but if you do, you can stop the flow of blood with a styptic pencil – this is just alum and is available in your drugstore or from nearly any man who shaves with a razor. As with any minor wound, it can be treated with an antiseptic cream, but it will probably heal uneventfully regardless of whether you treat it or not.

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Tick Prevention for your Iguana

Tuesday, January 26th, 2010

The powder with a warm bath and several rinses and clean the cage thoroughly before reintroducing the specimen.

These two insect killers should be available through your pet dealer or veterinarian. A mixture of half-and-half castor oil and 90% grain alcohol brushed on the affected areas may also eliminate mites. Don’t dip your pet in this mixture; just apply a little locally. Note that 90% grain alcohol is not 90 proof. You can buy 90% grain neutral spirits in your pharmacy or liquor store. A little goes a long way.

If you pick off ticks and chiggers with the tweezers, you might well follow up with an alcohol swab to help reduce the risk of infection at the sore spot. Perhaps a pretreatment with the alcohol will tend to loosen the tick before you attempt to pick it off. This passage is not intended to scare anyone from keeping an iguana. People have had dogs and cats with chiggers, ticks, mites and fleas for all of the recorded history.

A number of large and small ticks attached under the edges of the scales of a rainbow boa. The ticks found on iguanas are usually similar in appearance to those found on snakes – ticks are not too choosy.