Learning to handle your iguana correctly is very important. Never simply grab the animal; always be gentle but firm, and make no sudden moves that could frighten it. Remember that an iguana’s tail can break easily, so never pick one by the tail.
Tame iguanas can be encouraged to climb onto your arm, but otherwise pick up your animal by firmly holding it from above. Larger animals, or those that are not so tame, should be picked up using one hand behind the animal’s neck and one hand at the base of the tail. Confidence is the key to proper handling, and your animal will soon learn to respond to you.
Daily handling from a young age should ensure that your iguana becomes tame and used to you, but allow for a settling-in period so that your pet becomes confident in its new home.
Children should always be supervised by an adult when handling even young iguanas. Very large iguanas are best handled only by adults.
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Like people, iguanas are all different. Some are outgoing and enjoy the company of humans, others do not. There is, unfortunately, no simple way to predict how an iguana will turn out, but it is better to avoid any babies that appear nervous.
Males are generally more aggressive than females, but males can still make excellent pets. Iguanas are generally not aggressive toward humans, but may occasionally display aggression toward each other.
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Young iguanas may eat some insects, but adults are generally totally herbivorous. Live insects, such as crickets and mealworms, are readily available from all pet stores that sell reptiles (and many that don’t), and all of these are suitable for young iguanas. In the United Kingdom, locusts are also available.
Not all baby iguanas will eat insects, however, and they will thrive if fed exclusively on vegetable matter. The key to a good diet is variety, and it is very important not to let your iguana become fixated with one food item.
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Correct feeding is probably the most important aspect of keeping your iguana in good health, and is also the area in which most problems occur. Iguanas are herbivorous, that is, they eat plants; but they will also devour insects and small rodents in the wild.
Did you Know?
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Iguanas, like all reptiles, periodically shed their skins as they grow. Snakes do this in one piece, but iguana skin flakes off in patches. Occasionally, skin does not come away properly, particularly on the toes, and any adhering pieces need to be removed. This is best done by spraying the affected area with lukewarm water. Your iguana will appreciate being sprayed with water, particularly when it is shedding its skin.
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As your iguana grows, it will be necessary to provide a much larger cage. The general rule is that the cage should be at least one-and-a-half times the body length of the animal in length, two-thirds the length in width, and the same height as the length of the animal. Thus, for a 5-foot (1.5 m) animal (easily attained in very few years) the cage would need to be 7 1/2 feet (2.3 m) long, 3 1/2 feet (1.1 m) wide and 5 feet (1.5 m) high. Such a cage will need to be specially constructed, because a few pet stores can provide a ready-built enclosure of such dimensions. The basic design would be a wooden box with sliding glass doors at the front.
Another option is to turn an entire room into an iguana enclosure, which is particularly suitable for breeding groups. Another way of providing housing is to utilize an alcove or storage area, blocking it in and installing glass doors for access. You could also use an old wardrobe or cupboard by removing existing doors and replacing them with glass.
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You must set up your iguana’s cage before you acquire your pet. You will not be able to leave a young iguana in a cardboard box while you take the time to built it a suitable cage.
Did You Know?
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You can buy green iguanas from many pet stores, where experienced staff should be on hand to give you advice. If they are not, find another store.
What to Look for
Look for an iguana that is lively and alert. Make sure that it is plump and its eyes are bright, clear, and round, with no discharge. Check carefully that it has all its digits, that its claws are unbroken, and that there are no ticks or mites. A young iguana should have a mischievous and inquisitive look and should occasionally flick its tongue as it moves around. Always try to choose an iguana that remains reasonably calm when picked up, because it will be easier to handle than a flighty or nervous animal. Iguanas store fat at the base of their tail, so this should be fat and rounded, with no bones visible.
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Think very carefully before taking on the responsibility of owning an iguana.
Can be left unattended for short periods if the owner is away
Can be kept in homes where asthmatics live, because the lack of fur, feathers, and their related dust makes them excellent pets for allergy sufferers.
If properly maintained, are not prone to illness and require less maintenance than a dog or cat.
Could I look after an Iguana?
This is the most important question that you should ask yourself before you buy an iguana. Your animal will ultimately need a large living area and will be relatively expensive to care for. It is very important not to take on a baby iguana if you are unable, or not prepared, to look after it for its entire life. Zoos and animal rescue centers are burdened with many iguanas whose owners simply cannot cope with them when they get too large.
Remember, a baby iguana may cost no more than $10 to purchase, but the equipment you will need to house and care for it properly may cost an additional $400.
With proper care, green iguanas can live 10 to 15 years in captivity. Over the last few years, much has been learned about the requirements of these animals and there have been great advances in equipment and products available for maintaining them. This is likely to prolong life expectancy.
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