Posts Tagged ‘Drip Systems’

The Chameleon

Saturday, May 21st, 2011


The chameleon can be maintained year-round in large outdoor enclosures or compounds, and they do best this way. Duplicating this environment in a cold climate house or apartment on the mainland U.S. can be done, but is definitely a challenge. Feeding can be a problem as well, as chameleons quickly tire of the same food and must constantly be offered new types of bugs to eat. If they tire of one particular type of food they’ve been known to stop eating and die. Moreover, they need to gobble up large numbers of insects every day. Larger chameleons eat small birds, rodents, other lizards and small snakes as well.

They need natural, unfiltered sunlight or special UV-B emitting bulbs. Insects fed as food need to be gut loaded or dusted with vitamin/mineral supplements. Watering chameleons is also a challenge.They will not drink from a water bowl, but prefer instead to get their water from rain drops passing in front of them or lapping up dew on leaves. Various drip systems have been devised and put into use to accommodate their drinking behavior, including modification of medical IV drip sets.

Chameleons need to be housed separately or be given plenty of space as they are highly territorial and will fight with any other chameleon, male or female, that gets in their space. Males and females can be placed together to mate and breed, but should be separated after courtship and mating is completed.

They also need plenty of branches on which to perch and a cage that is higher than it is wide, preferably well aerated on three or all sides. The most commonly kept tropical species require daytime temperatures up to 90 degrees F under a basking light. Cool and hot spots should be provided so the lizard can thermoregulate by going back and forth. Temperatures can drop to 7 degrees at night. Chameleons are active and feed during daytime hours. Chameleons, as well as any plant matter landscape their enclosures, should be misted by day – in the early morning and again at dusk, breeze seems to stimulate some chameleons.

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More about Temperate and Subtropical Zones

Tuesday, February 15th, 2011


Many species of lizards, regardless of climatic origin, will drink water from a bowl or other container. The provision of water can be as simple as the inclusion of a water dish or as complicated as the elaborate arrangement of a waterfall and its corresponding lagoon.

Drinking water, as well as water that is provided for the lizard to soak in, should always be clean. The bowl should be emptied and refilled daily. If chlorine in tap water is a concern, bottled mineral water is commercially available. Many lizards are good swimmers, but others are not so adept. To eliminate the threat of a fatal fall into a water dish, it is a good idea to place non-sedimentary rocks, such as red shale, in an arrangement that provides the lizard with ease of access both into and out of the water. Either a drip system or the use of an air stone in conjunction with the water bowl will increase humidity as well as enable the lizard to find the water more easily. (Drip systems and air stone agitation of the water should be avoided in desert terrariums.)

Plastic plants can be used to decorate the terrarium environment, although they inspire nearly the same apathy in the viewer of such a habitat as do their sea-going counterparts that can be found in many uninteresting aquariums. Although plastic plants give the terrarium an unnatural “look,” they do have their advantages. Many “species” of fake plants are tough enough to withstand the abuse that is sometimes dealt out by rambunctious lizards. Additionally, the probability that pesticides have been applied prior to purchase is extremely remote. Conversely, most real plants will probably harbor these toxic substances. It is advisable to thoroughly clean any plant that has been purchased from a source where pesticide contamination is a possibility.

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Temperate and Subtropical Zones part 2

Thursday, November 26th, 2009


Prove to be the ideal temperatures for most temperate and subtropical species. Many species of lizards, regardless of climatic origin, will drink water from a bowl or other container. The provision of water can be as simple as the inclusion of a water dish or as complicated as the elaborate arrangement of a waterfall and its corresponding lagoon.

Drinking water, as well as the water that is provided for the lizard to soak in, should always be clean. The bowl should be emptied and refilled daily. If chlorine in tap water is a concern, bottled mineral water is commercially available. Many lizards are good swimmers, but others are not so adept. To eliminate the threat of a fatal fall into a water dish, it is a good idea to place non-sedimentary rocks, such as red shale, in an arrangement that provides the lizards with ease of access both into and out of the water. Either a drip system or the use of an air stone in conjunction with the water bowl will increase humidity as well as enable the lizard to find the water more easily. (Drip systems and air stone agitation of the water should be avoided in desert terrariums.)

Plastic plants can be used to decorate the terrarium environment, although they inspire nearly the same apathy in the viewer of such a habitat as do their sea-going counterparts that can be found in many uninteresting aquariums. Although plastic plants give the terrarium an unnatural “look,” they do have their advantages. Many “species” of fake plants are tough enough to withstand the abuse that is sometimes dealt out by rambunctious lizards. Additionally, the probability that pesticides have been applied prior to purchase is extremely remote. Conversely, most real plants will probably harbor these toxic substances. It is advisable to thoroughly clean any plant that has been purchased from a source where pesticide contamination is a possibility, although all traces of the poisonous chemicals might not be removable.

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