Posts Tagged ‘Captivity’

Salamanders and Newts as Pets

Wednesday, March 14th, 2012


Nobody can really say what it is that attracts certain people to certain groups of animals. Most people have an affection for animals of one sort or another, and nearly everybody has kept something in captivity at some stage of their lives. As children, many people kept snails or beetles in glass jars; they later may have had a hamster, a guinea pig, or a rabbit – the more adventurous perhaps kept a turtle or a snake. Later on in life the majority of pet keepers settle for a dog, a cat, or perhaps a cage bird. All these little experiences with animals may develop into a specific interest in a particular group, and certain groups of dedicated keepers may be regarded as “specialists” by themselves or perhaps “eccentrics” by others. We are referring to those groups of people who have a love for the more unusual and exotic types of “pets.” This book is for those who have a passion for the tailed amphibians, the salamanders and newts.

With ever-expanding urban areas and the influx of man into the cities to find work, people are gradually separating themselves from nature. This leads to a longing for some kind of substitute for nature, and many people opt to keep some kind of animal that can be kept in a miniature natural environment complete with plants and running water. Salamanders and newts are ideal choices for the home terrarium keeper – they are colorful, fairly easy to keep, and inexpensive to house. Moreover, there is still much to be learned about their various natural histories, and ideal opportunity for the amateur to become a scientist.

With a little artistic talent an attractive terrarium can be set up that will be the focal point of any living room or den. Providing the initial enthusiasm remains (and this should be carefully considered at the outset), and given a few basic requirements and a few minutes each day, it is easy to keep an exhibit of these animals that will be a sure topic of conversation whenever visitors arrive. The following text is designed to introduce the beginner to the fascinating world of salamanders and newts and gives guidelines on obtaining, housing, feeding, and caring for these fascinating creatures. It is hoped that this little book will lead the enthusiast into years of pleasure and entertainment.

 

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Housing For Salamanders

Saturday, January 28th, 2012


The keeping of any animal in captivity requires a responsive attitude. Unless you are certain that you will have the time, the devotion, and the ongoing enthusiasm for the hobby, then you should not start in the first place. Having decided to keep salamanders or newts in the home, the first step is to ensure that the correct type of housing is available. This should be done before any animals are acquired. The type of housing required will differ from species to species, depending on whether they are totally aquatic, semi aquatic, or terrestrial. A container in which living animals are kept is usually called an aquarium for aquatic creatures or a vivarium or terrarium for terrestrial creatures. For convenience, a container for semiaquatic animals is usually called an aqua-terrarium. Being amphibians, one may imagine that all newts and salamanders should be kept in an aquarium or aqua-terrarium, but this is not necessarily the case. Before deciding on a species to keep, make sure that you have a knowledge of its habits and native habitat so that conditions as natural as possible can be provided. Where it is impossible or extremely difficult to produce conditions that are totally natural, some acceptable compromise conditions can usually be found.

The Aquarium

We are here referring to the aquarium as a container of water in which we want to reproduce a totally aquatic environment with no land areas. Aquarium tanks may also be used for other types of housing. There are many kinds of tanks available on the market today, including molded clear plastic or plexiglass tanks that are usually small and ideal for rearing larvae and young newts. One disadvantage of plastic tanks, however, particularly if you want to use them as main display tanks, is that after continued use and cleaning a fine film of scratches will develop and eventually spoil the view into the vessel.

Another type of aquarium is the traditional iron- or steel-framed type into which panes of glass are fixed with putty. The disadvantage of these tanks is that, unless the frames are rust-proofed and painted at regular intervals with non-toxic paint, they will rust away. In addition, traditional putty tends to shrink and crack if the tank is stored without water, causing the tank to leak the next time it is filled.

 

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Salamanders Protective Barrier

Monday, January 16th, 2012


Most species have glands in the skin that will release poisonous or irritant substances in times of danger. It is therefore advisable to wash your hands each time after handling salamanders, as these substances, if transferred to the eyes or mucous membranes, can cause severe pain, irritation, and inflammation.

As the winter approaches, in most parts of its range T. cristatus will prepare for its winter hibernation, a period that is important to prepare it for the forthcoming breeding season. The newts burrow, deeply into the earth, often using tree roots of the burrows of other animals, until they reach a depth that will remain frost-free throughout the winter. Before hibernating, it is important that the newts have built up their fat reserves by consuming large quantities of insects. (Species from temperate areas may be kept in captivity without hibernation by simply keeping them warm, but such specimens are less likely to breed in the spring and their life spans will be somewhat shortened.) In the spring, as soon as the rays of the sun begin to warm up the surface, the newts will wake up and make their way to the breeding ponds. Young T. cristatus do not normally breed until they are in their second season.

 

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The American Anniellidae

Wednesday, December 7th, 2011


The purely American Anniellidae, consisting of two species, is also mainly subterranean in habits. It is known to be found near moisture, in loose soil such as beaches. Unlike the Dibamidae, Anniella has functional eyes and well developed eyelids.

The Anguinidae, have their share of burrowers, too, such as the well known slow-worm, Anguis fragilis, a worm-eating species found in Britain and continental Europe. They are remarkably long-lived for lizards. being kept in captivity for over 50 years, and are very effective eradicators of the garden slug.

Unique to Australia and New Guinea is a family known as “scaly-footed lizards,” the Pygopodidae. They are characterized by being limbless save for a pair of flaps near the vent. They lack eyelids and the ear may be exposed or hidden.

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The Organic Systems of Reptiles

Friday, August 12th, 2011


The liver and the heart, we owe to the kindness of Dr. W. Frank, Stuttgart, the picture of a large lizard (Iguana iguana) with excessive deposits of cholesterol in the walls of the large blood vessels. The same author provided the picture of the heart of a gavial which suffered from severe gout. This animal died when the heart was entirely encrusted with deposits of uric acid.

Diseases of the sexual system concern particularly the eggs (Hunt’s (1957) egg-necrosis) or the ovary). Klingelhoffer (1955) mentions the dangerous situation which arises when the process of oviposition is disturbed. This condition affects many captive reptilians, particularly tortoises and chameleons, and is probably due to a combination of causes. At the time of writing any attempt at treatment seems to be as dangerous as the condition itself.

Of the sensory organs the eye disease of terrapins is by far the most commonly seen. Since there have been no reports on this disease in wild animals it must be due to factors connected with captivity. Infection of the excretory ducts of the Harderian gland is the most likely cause, but it remains difficult to explain why in one and the same cage some of the specimens should contract the disease and other not.

 

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The Chaco Tortoise

Friday, July 29th, 2011


South America is home to three types of tortoises. Those tortoises are the ever popular red-footed tortoise (Geochelone carbonaria), yellow-footed tortoise (G.denticulata) and the little-known Chaco tortoise (G. chilensis). The Chaco tortoise was at one time very popular among American tortoisekeepers and still is in South America, but due to ever increasing restrictions on exportation it is becoming ever more rare in collections outside of its native range.

Those that are found in collections today are usually remnants of days past or are part of the small number currently allowed to be exported. Although the Chaco tortoise can be very hardy, it has proven to be extremely difficult to acclimate to captivity as is evident by its absence in collections today considering the large numbers that were imported in the past.

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Natural History

Tuesday, July 26th, 2011


The Chaco tortoise is active from October to March, which corresponds with spring and summer in the Southern Hemisphere. They feed on broad leafy weeds, cactus pads, fruits, grasses and carrion on occasion. Interestingly, Chacos have a strongly cuspid jaw and an equally strong bite, which might support the observation that this tortoise also feeds on carrion. In captivity, Chacos have been observed actually ripping the flesh from a debilitated tortoise.

There is one report that the Chaco tortoise can actually smell and seek out water, which would make sense considering the meager rainfall that occurs throughout its range. As mentioned, tortoises inhabiting the southern portion of the range dig burrows or occupy burrows abandoned by other animals, such as armadillos. In the north, tortoises spend their resting periods in shallow pallets that they dig out at the base of bushes. This also serves as shelter during extreme cold and hot temperatures.

Breeding occurs in the months of October to December. The male courts (if you want to call it that) the female by ramming and biting aggressively at her forelimbs to the point that flesh is sometimes torn. They then go through a typical tortoise breeding ritual where the male mounts the female and emits a vocal chirp or wheezing sound in the process.

A female will sometimes take on the role of a male with other females, but this behavior has been observed with other chelonians. It is not really known if this behavior serves any specific function. There is speculation that it is a form of domineering behavior.

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Lacertids

Saturday, June 4th, 2011


Many lacertids make excellent pets. They’re easy to feed, have undemanding requirements and are fairly long-lived if cared for properly. One species is recorded to have lived twenty years in captivity.

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Choosing a Pet Lizard

Tuesday, May 17th, 2011


Hobbyists have established elaborate warmed fan systems that cause a gentle breeze to waft through their enclosures. And if the above special needs aren’t enough, many wild-caught imports come loaded with parasites and need to be expertly and carefully diagnosed and treated by a knowledgeable veterinarian. Although some parasites are kept in check in the wild by the animal’s immune system, the stresses associated with captivity may suppress immune function and then such parasites can become a real problem.

In addition to the Hawaiian Yellow Crested Jackson’s Chameleon, hobbyists also have had some luck with the large Panther Chameleon (Chamaeleo pardalis), and either of these is recommended as a starter species for novice chameleon keepers. Regardless of which chameleon species you decide on, always opt for captive-born chameleons and buy them from a knowledgeable source that can provide continuing advice and counseling on problems that arise.

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Your Pet Lizard

Saturday, May 14th, 2011


 

These lizard inhabit, extremely arid open sandy desert or rocky areas; they dig burrows up to 5 feet deep in order to escape harsh conditions at the surface. They obtain almost all their water from the food that they eat and reabsorb the liquid part of their urine to further conserve this precious resource. They also can be seen lapping dew or drinking rain drops that fall around their heads.

Some species are gorgeously colored in mosaics of green, red and yellow, whereas others are drab and sandy or brown colored. Among the least expensive and most commonly offered is the dark brown colored Egyptian Mastigure (Uromastyx aegypticus). More expensive and more rarely seen is the patterned and colorful Ornate Mastigure (Uromastyx ornatus). Its colors are so striking that it’s hard to believe it is real, live lizard and not an artist’s conception. Another very colorful species is Dabbs Mastigure (Uromastyx acanthinurus), which is dotted with bands of black spots on a yellow background blending to orange-red.

Mastigures are herbivores ( a few are omnivorous) and are not difficult to feed. They will consume a wide variety of store-bought vegetables, greens and fruits, which should be lightly rinsed to provide water and then dusted with a powdered vitamin/mineral supplement. In the wild, mastigures  endure a diet of desert scrubs, leaves, seeds and flowers. In captivity you can feed them collard greens, kale, mustard and dandelion greens with or without flowers. Do not collect leafy matter or flowers from areas that may have been sprayed with pesticides or other agricultural chemicals.

They require a sandy or rocky habitat heated to 100 degrees to 110 degrees F during the day. Like other lizards they should be given a choice of cool (85 degrees F) and hot spots (95 degrees to 105 degrees F) in order to thermoregulate. They will try to bury themselves in the substrate, mimicking their burrowing behavior in the wild, but unless you provide great depth they will not be able to completely submerge themselves.

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