Like people, iguanas are all different. Some are outgoing and enjoy the company of humans, others do not. There is, unfortunately, no simple way to predict how an iguana will turn out, but it is better to avoid any babies that appear nervous.
Males are generally more aggressive than females, but males can still make excellent pets. Iguanas are generally not aggressive toward humans, but may occasionally display aggression toward each other.
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Young iguanas may eat some insects, but adults are generally totally herbivorous. Live insects, such as crickets and mealworms, are readily available from all pet stores that sell reptiles (and many that don’t), and all of these are suitable for young iguanas. In the United Kingdom, locusts are also available.
Not all baby iguanas will eat insects, however, and they will thrive if fed exclusively on vegetable matter. The key to a good diet is variety, and it is very important not to let your iguana become fixated with one food item.
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Claws need to be trimmed regularly for the comfort of the owner as well as the reptile. This should be carried out on a regular basis and will require assistance. One person must hold the iguana firmly, while the other carries out the claw-trimming.
Clean the areas first, using a disinfectant designed for reptiles, then use sharp nail clippers to remove the end of the claw. Avoid cutting claws too short because you may cut into the blood vessels in the nail, which could lead to infection. Always ask advice from your pet store or veterinarian if in doubt.
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Iguanas, like all reptiles, periodically shed their skins as they grow. Snakes do this in one piece, but iguana skin flakes off in patches. Occasionally, skin does not come away properly, particularly on the toes, and any adhering pieces need to be removed. This is best done by spraying the affected area with lukewarm water. Your iguana will appreciate being sprayed with water, particularly when it is shedding its skin.
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Vitamin supplements are available for reptiles, and your pet store or veterinarian will be able to advise on the best for your pet. Always follow the instructions provided, and don’t be tempted to exceed the suggested doses. Females should be given additional supplementation during the breeding season.
If you buy a good, healthy animal to start with, feeding should present no problems. The trick is to offer a varied diet and to find out what your animal likes best.
Did You Know?
The iguana’s long, flattened tail is used as a rudder when swimming and also as a defense weapon. A lash from the tail would make any adversary think twice about taking on the iguana.
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Clean water must be available at all times. Most iguanas will drink from a bowl once they are used to it, but some might prefer drinking from a fine mist spray. This will also encourage healthy shedding and will be greatly appreciated by your iguana.
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In warmer parts of the United States and southern Europe, iguanas can be kept outside for a large part of the time. Even in colder countries, like England, iguanas enjoy being able to get outside and bask in natural sunlight on warm days. A sturdy, aviary-like structure with a wooden frame and wire mesh panels is probably the best and easiest to construct. The use of glass in outdoor enclosures should be restricted to small areas only, to prevent overheating or burning.
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As your iguana grows, it will be necessary to provide a much larger cage. The general rule is that the cage should be at least one-and-a-half times the body length of the animal in length, two-thirds the length in width, and the same height as the length of the animal. Thus, for a 5-foot (1.5 m) animal (easily attained in very few years) the cage would need to be 7 1/2 feet (2.3 m) long, 3 1/2 feet (1.1 m) wide and 5 feet (1.5 m) high. Such a cage will need to be specially constructed, because a few pet stores can provide a ready-built enclosure of such dimensions. The basic design would be a wooden box with sliding glass doors at the front.
Another option is to turn an entire room into an iguana enclosure, which is particularly suitable for breeding groups. Another way of providing housing is to utilize an alcove or storage area, blocking it in and installing glass doors for access. You could also use an old wardrobe or cupboard by removing existing doors and replacing them with glass.
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This is really a matter of personal choice, but certain conditions must be provided. At least one tree branch is needed for the animal to climb and bask on, and it is important that this branch is large enough for the iguana. The branch should be fitted diagonally, from one side of the cage to the other, and should slope from the bottom to the top. It must be firmly secured so that it cannot fall and injure the iguana.
The floor of the cage needs to be covered with some form of substrate. You can use bark chips, wood chips, gravel, specially designed cage carpets, or simply old newspaper. Whatever you choose to use, it is important that the substrate is regularly cleaned or replaced.
Did you Know?
The common iguana’s scientific name is iguana iguana, and it is one of eight different species that comprise the family Iguanidae.
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It is always best to start with a young animal, between three and six months old, which will acclimatize well to its new life in captivity. If you do want a larger animal, choose one that has been in captivity for a long time. Some pet stores take in animals that have grown too large for their previous owners, and, if you have the space, this is an excellent way of obtaining a sexable animal.
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