Posts Tagged ‘Burrows’

Salamanders Protective Barrier

Monday, January 16th, 2012


Most species have glands in the skin that will release poisonous or irritant substances in times of danger. It is therefore advisable to wash your hands each time after handling salamanders, as these substances, if transferred to the eyes or mucous membranes, can cause severe pain, irritation, and inflammation.

As the winter approaches, in most parts of its range T. cristatus will prepare for its winter hibernation, a period that is important to prepare it for the forthcoming breeding season. The newts burrow, deeply into the earth, often using tree roots of the burrows of other animals, until they reach a depth that will remain frost-free throughout the winter. Before hibernating, it is important that the newts have built up their fat reserves by consuming large quantities of insects. (Species from temperate areas may be kept in captivity without hibernation by simply keeping them warm, but such specimens are less likely to breed in the spring and their life spans will be somewhat shortened.) In the spring, as soon as the rays of the sun begin to warm up the surface, the newts will wake up and make their way to the breeding ponds. Young T. cristatus do not normally breed until they are in their second season.

 

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Natural History

Tuesday, July 26th, 2011


The Chaco tortoise is active from October to March, which corresponds with spring and summer in the Southern Hemisphere. They feed on broad leafy weeds, cactus pads, fruits, grasses and carrion on occasion. Interestingly, Chacos have a strongly cuspid jaw and an equally strong bite, which might support the observation that this tortoise also feeds on carrion. In captivity, Chacos have been observed actually ripping the flesh from a debilitated tortoise.

There is one report that the Chaco tortoise can actually smell and seek out water, which would make sense considering the meager rainfall that occurs throughout its range. As mentioned, tortoises inhabiting the southern portion of the range dig burrows or occupy burrows abandoned by other animals, such as armadillos. In the north, tortoises spend their resting periods in shallow pallets that they dig out at the base of bushes. This also serves as shelter during extreme cold and hot temperatures.

Breeding occurs in the months of October to December. The male courts (if you want to call it that) the female by ramming and biting aggressively at her forelimbs to the point that flesh is sometimes torn. They then go through a typical tortoise breeding ritual where the male mounts the female and emits a vocal chirp or wheezing sound in the process.

A female will sometimes take on the role of a male with other females, but this behavior has been observed with other chelonians. It is not really known if this behavior serves any specific function. There is speculation that it is a form of domineering behavior.

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Distinction Between Northern and Southern Tortoises

Friday, July 22nd, 2011


There are a few major differences between the northern and southern tortoises. The northern form, or G.petersi, is usually smaller in size as adults. The color is also generally darker in the northern form. There are also some behavioral differences. Because the climate is not as harsh on the north, the northern tortoises are reported not to dig burrows as do the southern tortoises. This might explain the distinctive annular rings that are found on the tortoises from the north and not the south. Both groups go into an estivation period during harsh weather conditions, such as winter or extreme summers, but you really wouldn’t call it hibernation.

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Your Pet Lizard

Saturday, May 14th, 2011


 

These lizard inhabit, extremely arid open sandy desert or rocky areas; they dig burrows up to 5 feet deep in order to escape harsh conditions at the surface. They obtain almost all their water from the food that they eat and reabsorb the liquid part of their urine to further conserve this precious resource. They also can be seen lapping dew or drinking rain drops that fall around their heads.

Some species are gorgeously colored in mosaics of green, red and yellow, whereas others are drab and sandy or brown colored. Among the least expensive and most commonly offered is the dark brown colored Egyptian Mastigure (Uromastyx aegypticus). More expensive and more rarely seen is the patterned and colorful Ornate Mastigure (Uromastyx ornatus). Its colors are so striking that it’s hard to believe it is real, live lizard and not an artist’s conception. Another very colorful species is Dabbs Mastigure (Uromastyx acanthinurus), which is dotted with bands of black spots on a yellow background blending to orange-red.

Mastigures are herbivores ( a few are omnivorous) and are not difficult to feed. They will consume a wide variety of store-bought vegetables, greens and fruits, which should be lightly rinsed to provide water and then dusted with a powdered vitamin/mineral supplement. In the wild, mastigures  endure a diet of desert scrubs, leaves, seeds and flowers. In captivity you can feed them collard greens, kale, mustard and dandelion greens with or without flowers. Do not collect leafy matter or flowers from areas that may have been sprayed with pesticides or other agricultural chemicals.

They require a sandy or rocky habitat heated to 100 degrees to 110 degrees F during the day. Like other lizards they should be given a choice of cool (85 degrees F) and hot spots (95 degrees to 105 degrees F) in order to thermoregulate. They will try to bury themselves in the substrate, mimicking their burrowing behavior in the wild, but unless you provide great depth they will not be able to completely submerge themselves.

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Iguana and Its Habitat

Wednesday, February 24th, 2010


Now Beebe was actively observing tropical animal life for forty years and this was the most intelligent iguana activity he was able to report. Draw your own conclusions.

Your pet can be expected to respond in ways you can measure to warmth, light, food, dogs, and water, but you will need a lot of patience and a sharp eye to spot many of these responses.

When in trouble, an iguana heads for a tree or for water. The ideal escape would be up a tree overhanging water, then to drop into the water, swim underwater and quietly come to the surface sometime later. If things get worse, and only as a last resort, the iguana can drop most of his tail. The discarded appendage will swish about for a while and perhaps distract the enemy while the reptile makes his escape. The tail stump will bleed a little then heal and slowly regenerate, but it will never be as nice as the original. There will be a scar line and the new tail will probably be solid black rather than black-banded green, and possibly it will not be as long as the original. C’est la vie!

Common iguanas are arboreal. They like to live in trees. They could spend their entire adult lives in trees, the females coming down once a year to dig burrows in a sandy hillside to lay eggs and the young remaining on land until they get too large or slow or hungry to subsist on just crickets and smaller reptiles. Your pet should be permitted to climb and perch and feel secure on a high window sill, valance or mantle piece. He can manage without the water under the perch if you provide a place to bathe or soak once in a while.

Longevity records for iguanas suggest that ten years for a common green iguana is not at all unusual. One pet kept in an apartment is known by the author to be over twelve years old. W. Michael Carey of the University of South Florida, Tampa, reported on two caged pets, one of which lived twelve years and five months; when it died it measured about 13 1/2 inches from snout to vent. Since the tail might be more than three fifths the total length, we could estimate a total length of perhaps four feet. Another captive lived ten years and five months; its snout-vent length (SVL) was about twelve inches.

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