Archive for July, 2010

Handling Your Iguana

Saturday, July 31st, 2010


Learning to handle your iguana correctly is very important. Never simply grab the animal; always be gentle but firm, and make no sudden moves that could frighten it. Remember that an iguana’s tail can break easily, so never pick one by the tail.

Tame iguanas can be encouraged to climb onto your arm, but otherwise pick up your animal by firmly holding it from above. Larger animals, or those that are not so tame, should be picked up using one hand behind the animal’s neck and one hand at the base of the tail. Confidence is the key to proper handling, and your animal will soon learn to respond to you.

Daily handling from a young age should ensure that your iguana becomes tame and used to you, but allow for a settling-in period so that your pet becomes confident in its new home.

Children should always be supervised by an adult when handling even young iguanas. Very large iguanas are best handled only by adults.

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Water Bowl

Monday, July 26th, 2010


When you first bring your iguana home, it may be necessary to include a hide box in the cage. This provides a retreat if the animal feels nervous, and it can be removed once the iguana feels secure in its new home. You can also include decorative items such as plants. You could use live plants, but they will probably be eaten by the iguanas or destroyed by their sharp claws, so artificial plants are a better alternative. If you do choose live plants, make sure they are not toxic.

You will also need a large water bowl for the animal to drink from and bathe in. Iguanas frequently defecate in their water bowl, so check regularly to make sure the water is clean at all times.

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Provide Variety in Your Iguana’s Diet

Thursday, July 22nd, 2010


Iguanas, particularly young animals that are growing fast, are prone to metabolic bone disease due to lack of calcium in their diet, so it is important to take this into account when feeding. Calcium-rich plant material should make up at least 35 percent of the diet and includes items such as greens, alfalfa, kale, dandelion (both flowers and leaves will be taken eagerly by iguanas), green beans, and Chinese cabbage. Most lizards, including iguanas, require a 2:1 calcium/phosphorus ratio, and because many fruits and vegetables have a high phosphorus level, the calcium-rich items are doubly important.

Most other fruits and vegetables will also be eaten by iguanas. Commonly used items include frozen mixed vegetables (thawed), carrots, bananas, tomatoes, grapes, and lettuce. Experiment with as many different foods as possible to give your animals an interesting and varied diet. Members of the cabbage family should be fed sparingly because they can cause thyroid problems if given in large quantities.

Commercial iguana foods are now available, but should make up no more than 15 percent of the total diet.

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Feeding Your Iguana:How Often to Feed

Monday, July 19th, 2010


Young animals should be fed twice daily and adults can be reduced to one daily feeding. Make sure food is of the correct consistency, that is, finely chop all foods for young animals. Around 2 ounces (57 g) of finely chopped vegetable material should suffice for a baby iguana. If your animal finishes all its food quickly, increase the quantity, but if it leaves most of its food untouched, reduce the amount. If the iguana is growing and putting on weight, you have got the quantity right.  A good rule of thumb is to feed your iguana as much as it can eat in an hour and remove any uneaten items. Feed your iguana as much as it can eat within an hour.

Did You Know?

Iguanas cannot change their color like chameleons, but coloration and pattern will become more vivid under natural sunlight or broad-spectrum fluorescent light.
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Bites and Scratches

Thursday, July 15th, 2010


Iguana bites are not common, but iguanas certainly can bite if provoked. Fortunately, iguanas give plenty of warning when they are not happy, usually in the form of hissing and tail whipping. Failure to notice such warnings could have a bad outcome. While a baby or young iguana bite will be merely a painful nip, a bite from an adult iguana will be far more serious and may result in the need for stitches. Read the warning signs and this situation should never arise.

Scratches are by far the most common injury from pet iguanas. Keep in mind that iguanas are arboreal lizards, and, as such, their claws are long and sharp to help them climb. If they become startled, they will cling on wherever they are. If this happens to be your arm, you may get some nasty scratches. Trimming the claws will reduce scratching.
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Iguana Personalities

Thursday, July 15th, 2010


Like people, iguanas are all different. Some are outgoing and enjoy the company of humans, others do not. There is, unfortunately, no simple way to predict how an iguana will turn out, but it is better to avoid any babies that appear nervous.

Males are generally more aggressive than females, but males can still make excellent pets. Iguanas are generally not aggressive toward humans, but may occasionally display aggression toward each other.

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What to Feed?

Monday, July 12th, 2010


Young iguanas may eat some insects, but adults are generally totally herbivorous. Live insects, such as crickets and mealworms, are readily available from all pet stores that sell reptiles (and many that don’t), and all of these are suitable for young iguanas. In the United Kingdom, locusts are also available.

Not all baby iguanas will eat insects, however, and they will thrive if fed exclusively on vegetable matter. The key to a good diet is variety, and it is very important not to let your iguana become fixated with one food item.

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Feeding Your Iguana

Friday, July 9th, 2010


Correct feeding is probably the most important aspect of keeping your iguana in good health, and is also the area in which most problems occur. Iguanas are herbivorous, that is, they eat plants; but they will also devour insects and small rodents in the wild.

Did you Know?

Their large size means adult iguanas have few natural predators, but they are the prey of large snakes, such as boas and anacondas. Baby iguanas are more vulnerable, being preyed on by turtles, large fish, and a variety of mammals and birds.

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Claws

Tuesday, July 6th, 2010


Claws need to be trimmed regularly for the comfort of the owner as well as the reptile. This should be carried out on a regular basis and will require assistance. One person must hold the iguana firmly, while the other carries out the claw-trimming.

Clean the areas first, using a disinfectant designed for reptiles, then use sharp nail clippers to remove the end of the claw. Avoid cutting claws too short because you may cut into the blood vessels in the nail, which could lead to infection. Always ask advice from your pet store or veterinarian if in doubt.

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Caring for Your Iguana:Skin Care

Saturday, July 3rd, 2010


Iguanas, like all reptiles, periodically shed their skins as they grow. Snakes do this in one piece, but iguana skin flakes off in patches. Occasionally, skin does not come away properly, particularly on the toes, and any adhering pieces need to be removed. This is best done by spraying the affected area with lukewarm water. Your iguana will appreciate being sprayed with water, particularly when it is shedding its skin.

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